A Sommelier's Guide to Port

An in-depth guide to decanting, serving and keeping port by sommelier Matthew Wilkin MS. Supplied courtesy of the Academy of Food & Wine Service.

1. Reasons for decanting, or not decanting

Not every type of port will need decanting. Vintage Ports, being matured in the bottle, should be decanted to remove the natural sediment deposited by the wine. But Late Bottled Vintage Ports and Tawny Ports do not need decanting as they mature in the cask, and should be bright, clear and ready to drink, as the sediment was removed before bottling during the wine making process.

2. Equipment

There is no mystery to decanting. It just requires a steady hand and a good eye. You will need a service table/gueridon, possibly a cradle for last minute orders, candle and candleholder, corkscrew, wax slicing knife (any short and sturdy knife will do) cloth, service cloth, and a table crumber/scraper.

The splash of white paint on the bottle tells you which way up it was cellared; this mark should be uppermost during decanting. Stand the bottle upright for several days or preferably one week (depending on the age of the port-the older the longer), to allow all sediment to fall to the bottom. If ordered at the end of a meal by the client and served immediately, then handle the bottle in its original storage position by using a wine cradle; conduct all procedures right up to presentation and opening in the cradle, which should hold the bottle at a 45˚ angle as to not disturb the sediment too much. Have a perfectly clean decanter ready, or failing that, a clear glass wine bottle or jug.

3. Method

Stand the bottle vertical (or at a 45˚ angle in a cradle) on the service table/gueridon with the label facing the customer; remove the seal below the lower ridge of the neck, without turning the bottle.

With wax seals, heat the end of a short sturdy knife to assist with melting the wax so you can slice into it, or gently tap and chip away the wax to expose the top of the cork and wipe the top of the bottle clean (a table crumber/scraper normally used to remove crumbs from a table should be used to collect the broken up wax pieces, to then deposit in a side dish to keep the service table/gueridon clean and tidy before moving onto decanting).

Pulling the cork is the most difficult part of this process. The older the bottle, the harder it is. Ease the cork out gently (older corks may require a double pronged cork remover). The old corks inevitably break up in the neck and fall inside. If this should happen, don't panic! (In fact, you can expect the cork to break up most of the time). Simply strain the wine when decanting. Usually the funnel (if you happen to be using one) has a wire screen just for this purpose. Otherwise, a piece of muslin or nylon will do the trick. Paper filters (i.e. coffee) are not recommended as they can add flavours to the port that were not intended.
Re-wipe the outer and inner parts of the neck and hold the bottle and decanter at 45˚ angles facing each other to ease your control of pouring.

If you are brave and so inclined, you may use the traditional port tongs. The tongs must be heated until they are red-hot, and then clamped around the neck of the bottle below the cork and above the shoulder of the bottle for about 1 to 2 minutes. Then remove the tongs and apply a small wet towel to the same spot.

The rapid change in temperature should cause the glass to break cleanly, thus "removing" the cork. From the cork you can verify the authenticity of a vintage port -- the year and the house will be branded on the cork.

4. Sediment

A table lamp, candle flame or torch behind the bottle will help you see if any sediment is approaching the neck.

A small funnel, ideally with a strainer, may be helpful. In one continuous motion, slowly pour the wine into a decanter. When the sediment begins to appear in the neck of the bottle, slow it down and maintain a slower controlled pour without back washing which causes the sediment to lift and flow with the port wine.

5. Glassware

Glasses should always be spotlessly clean, free of any residual detergent or other tainted aromas and have been stored in a well-ventilated area.

A thin, colorless glass is best for displaying the deep rich colour of port to its best advantage. Half filled, a deep bowl allows the wine to be swirled around, focusing all the complex, fruity aromas into the inward-curving top of the glass.

The glass should at the minimum be a standard INAO-type tasting glass. However, there are glasses specifically designed for port on the market. The traditional port glass is slightly smaller than a standard white wine glass, holding about 5 or 6 ounces. It is best to use a tulip shaped glass with a U-shaped bowl for proper tasting and appreciation of the wine. It should be filled no more than halfway, so that the wine may show off its aroma and be fully appreciated. With the exception of Vintage, Traditional LBV and possibly Garrafeira, you may open the bottle and enjoy it immediately.

Because port is a fortified wine with an alcoholic content of 19-20%, servings of just two to three ounces are standard.

6. Service temperature

Port is quite often served too warm -- 70 degrees Fahrenheit and often more. This makes the wine too volatile and difficult to taste. It should be served between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit -- or 16-18°C.

7. How long a bottle keeps once opened

Vintage port should be consumed within 24 hours of opening. This is to ensure that it is enjoyed at its best. Having spent its 'life' in bottle with little contact with the air it quickly oxidizes and falls flat.

The other Port styles, like the Late Bottled Vintage and the Aged Tawny ports, can be consumed for up to three weeks from the date of opening.

Port styles have various shelf lives after being opened. All bottles should be re-corked immediately after serving, tagged with the date of opening and stored in a cool place. Generally, the older the port the shorter the shelf life, especially after opening. Use this as a guide:

• Vintage Port and Quinta dos Canais: should be consumed within 24 hours of opening the bottle.
• Fine Ruby, Fine Tawny, Special Reserve and Anno Late Bottled Vintage: should be consumed within 5-6 weeks after opening.
• Aged Tawnies: should be consumed within 5-10 days after opening

Article supplied courtesy of the Academy of Food & Wine Service