Quality matters

Making the right meat choices is key in the current economic climate but particularly for a demanding cost sector. Sheila Eggleston reports.

High quality but value for money, improved sourcing and reduced wastage have helped the foodservice sector keep its head above water in a cash starved society.

When it comes to meat however, consumers maybe canny in their choices but data from NPD Group/Crest shows total servings of beef and lamb out of home have risen by 1.2% and 5.7% respectively.

Beef accounted for 47.3%, over half of which (28.9%) were driven by beef burgers, while lamb accounted for 7.9%. Lamb has the highest average spend per individual serving at £12.56, with beef second at £10.64. For burgers however it is £4.85.

Additional figures from the analyst [year ending March 2011] show pork accounted for 65% of total out of home servings. Bacon topped the list (27.2%) followed by sausages (20.4%), ham (11.4%) and pork (4.3%), making pork the most popular red meat eaten out of home, according to BPEX.

It believes last year's growth in bacon and sausage sales is likely to be the result of the growing trend for meal deal promotions encouraging people to eat out during the recession. Fresh pork however was driven by chefs experimenting with new dishes featuring less used cuts and innovative NPD.

Data shows 26% of total out of home eating directly related to meal deals in quarter one of 2011, up 4% from 2008, and the trend is set to continue.

"The boom in promotions, which have been particularly driven towards lunchtime, was a direct response from the foodservice industry to encourage people to eat out again," explains foodservice trade manager Tony Goodger. "Many consumers had tightened their purse strings, resulting in a knock on effect to the frequency they were eating out during the recession.

"As a result, caterers and consumers looked to pork to offer value for money meals. Sausages featured highly in this type of promotion. Sandwiches and wraps also performed well as hot fillings have grown in popularity."

His concern is that it will be hard for many operators to turn back from these aggressive promotions because their customers will be reliant on them.

Recognising that price would be a critical factor for operators, EBLEX introduced 72 new cuts to add more value to the carcase. Foodservice project manager Hugh Judd says: "Our research confirms that more chefs are keen to explore under used and less well known cuts to exploit their added value potential.

We're also seeing chefs becoming inventive in preparing dishes using cuts from the shin, belly, flank and neck."

Unlike EBLEX, BPEX hasn't introduced new cuts, preferring to stick to standard cuts and a certain amount of "re-educating" caterers. "They're more interested in using the whole pig and many chefs like experimenting," explains Goodger.

Cuts from the head including pig cheeks for slow braising dishes and terrines, and even ears, are featuring on menus. Traditional pork based dishes are also making a comeback such as faggots, which chefs are making themselves using offal and minced pork or buying them in pre-prepared. BPEX is also working with a sous vide supplier on trials using cheap pork cuts. "This is for foodservice," he says. "The longer cooking time gives pork a great texture."

7 Day Catering's executive chef Chris Ince says one way it's making better use of lower cost cuts of meat is by braising them slowly with aromatics that impart flavour over hours of cooking at lower temperatures, and to also confit more.

"When it comes to serving, popular options are to flake or shred it, adding flavour by way of fresh herbs, vegetables or spices. Sometimes we mould products into a shape such as a terrine, then chill and cut before heating and serving with appropriate seasonal accompaniments.

"We also utilise these cuts in stir fries with noodles or rice, as well as proteins for pasta, sandwiches or panini fillings, even premium salads."

Many foodservice operators have seen the value in the Red Tractor scheme, run by Assured Food Standards, which guarantees food production adheres to a rigid set of standards and offers full traceability from farm to fork. The latest to sign up to it is Elior UK and all its outlets are now licensed to sell Red Tractor assured meat.

All the meat products offered by school meal specialist UK Foodhall are Red Tractor accredited. This year it won the BPEX Pork Product of the Year award for best innovative pork recipe with a Chinese style pork bake with baked beans.

Other new products include BBQ style pork rib and sweet chilli pork bake and a British beef slice in gravy. Another of its specialities is a beef, broccoli and spinach steakette that keeps vegetables hidden from children, says sales and marketing director Robert Clark.

"You can use it on the menu and call it a beef burger. You can't see the vegetables as they've been blended in really well to hide the greens."

Words Sheila Eggleston

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